Before you start, a caution
Building Bootstrap is intended to be a first experience in building something with real consequences (i.e. ruining a part) for mistakes. Read through and contemplate the instructions that follow before you do anything else. It would be a good idea to try a “dry run” of test fitting items in each section without soldering anything before taking it all apart and starting for real. You will have limited opportunities to make mistakes on this project before you have to throw something (or many things) out and start over with a new one.
How to Use these Instructions
The following assembly instructions are for the basic Bootstrap model using 3D printed parts. If you are planning a variation, such as using a plywood chassis, or an upgrade, such as bluetooth module, consult the Variations and Upgrades page [under development] for alternative instructions in the relevant areas before working through the following.
The instructions are presented as a single long document to make printing and saving easier. Below are internal links to the major sections that will allow you to jump to them quickly if you are building Bootstrap over multiple sessions:
Soldering initial components to the prototyping board
Header pin strips
If you are using a 3 row header strip cut 3 pieces from it, one each of 11×3 pins, 4×3 pins and 2×3 pins. The strip is designed to break between rows of pins. Deeply score each cut point with a serrated knife or coping saw, then snap the piece you want from the strip at the cut point. Doing a careful job here is worthwhile because there are some tight tolerances for these pieces when everything is mounted on the prototyping board. If you are using 1 row header strips cut or snap 3 pieces of 11 pins, 3 of 4 pins and 2 of 3 pins.
Insert the pieces of the header strips into the prototyping board at the exact locations and with the board oriented as shown in figure 5.01.
The short side of the pins goes through the top of the board (which displays the copyright notice). The long side of the pins point upward from the board. The outermost strips of pin align with the +/- rows on the prototyping board. But note how this is not symmetrical on both sides of the board: the outermost pin is in the – row on the left and in the + row on the right. Unless they fit quite snuggly, you will want to temporarily tape these rows of pins in place before turning the board over for soldering (see Figure 5.02).
You will now be soldering 51 pins to the backside of the prototyping board (and many more later on). This is a good chance to get some practice with basic soldering. Make absolutely sure you have the header strip pieces in the correct location on the board before you start. De-soldering all those pins if you have made a mistake will be essentially impossible.
Once the board is flipped you should see the tip of each pin standing just above the silver pad. If you don’t, your strip slipped out of place when you flipped the board and you need to reseat and secure it. Start soldering with each group of pins by soldering one pin at diagonal corners. This will hold the strip securely in place as you do the rest. Then systematically go through the rows and columns of each strip to solder the rest of the pins. Do not keep the tip of your iron on a single pad longer than needed to melt solder around it. If you over heat the extremely thin pad it will lift off its backing and that pad will be ruined for good.
With such tightly packed solder points it is also important to keep the tip of your soldering iron precisely in the pad you are working on and not let it wander over to an adjacent a pad because you might accidentally bridge the two pads with solder. Figure 5.03 shows what you do not want to happen.
It also helps to be sparing with the amount of solder you feed in to avoid bridging pads, use just enough to see the solder suck itself down around your pin and avoid building up a large bubble of solder. If you do end up bridging pads you will want to remelt the solder between the pads (which will promptly and frustratingly try to re-establish the bridge) and pull it out with a pick or solder sucker before it resolidifies. You can also try cutting it with your flush cutters when cool, but solidified solder is hard to cut.
Once you have the header strips in place it is a good idea to check to make sure you have successfully made your connections and have not made more than you intended to by using your multimeter. A few minutes verifying your work here can save you hours of scratching your head much later down the road when you can’t figure out why your new sensor is not working with your completed robot. Or why everything is shorting out.
To test for bridged pads, set your multimeter to audible continuity. You have it set correctly if touching the tips of the multimeter probes together produces a beep (Figure 5.04).
Now test all the adjacent pairs of pins you just soldered with the probes (Figure 5.05).
You should not hear any beeps. A beep indicates that you have bridged that set of pins and you need to correct it. It doesn’t matter which probe goes on which pin when testing continuity.
You should also test for cold solder joints—joints that you have soldered but have not made a proper electrical connection. Keep you multimeter in audile continuity mode. Place the tip of one probe into the red (- or negative) column of pads from below the board at an empty pad. Then touch every pin from your header strips soldered into a red column (Figure 5.06).
This time you should hear a beep each time you test one of your ground pins. Switch over to the white (+ or positive) column and test all of your positive pins. Again you should hear a beep each time. To test the interior rows of pins from your header strips (which will become data lines connected to the Arduino) you will need to insert a probe into an empty pad (from below) connected to the pin you are testing by a white line on the top of the board. If you have a cold solder joint, remelt the solder at both pads you tested and then test again. Although slightly tedious, testing simple solder connections is well worth the few minutes it takes.
The columns and rows on the prototyping board marked “+” and “-” will be referred to as the power rails in the rest of the instructions.
Motor controller board
The motor controller board comes with single row header pins that need to be soldered to both the controller board and the prototyping board. The most reliable way to do this is to:
1. Put the pins in the correct location on the prototyping board (long pins down this time, they will be clipped short later).
2. Insert the motor controller board, with its pad labels facing up on top of the pins.
3. Solder the motor controller to top of the pins from the top of the board.
4. After it cools make sure it is seated all the way down on the board and tape it down to hold in place, flip the board over and solder the bottom of the pins from the bottom of the board. The long pins will make it a bit trickier to solder the bottom connections, but it can be done. Avoid bridging pads by using too much solder and lifting pads by keeping them heated for too long.
Figure 5.07 shows the pins inserted into the proto board.
They go on either side of the power rails, not in them. Figure 5.08 shows a top view of the motor controller board after soldering from the top.
Notice that the pin labels on the controller board are facing up and that the GND label points toward the center of the prototyping board. The motor controller pins should not be inserted into any power rail pads.
After the bottom of the controller board is fully soldered test for continuity. You can do this while the board is upside down. Touch one probe to the tip of a pin on the topside and the other to an empty pad next to it on the bottom side. You should get a beep for continuity.
Prepare the Arduino
If your Arduino comes with header pins already soldered to it you can skip this step and move on to “Install the Arduino.” If not, you need to solder them in. Start with the group of 2×3 pins that came with your Arduino. These are inserted into the matching pads from the top of the Arduino (long side of pins sticking up). The best way to solder these is to flip the Arduino Nano board over with the 2×3 pins inserted, prop the other end of the board up on something to make it roughly level, and tape it down to hold it while soldering. This is illustrated in Figure 5.09.
Solder the short side of the 2×3 pins to the pads on the bottom of the Arduino. Then put the single header pin strips that came with your Arduino into the correct place on the prototyping board as shown in Figure 5.10 and described in the following paragraph. Solder the Arduino to the top of them just like you did for the motor controller board.
Install the Arduino
Insert your Arduino board into the top of the prototyping board, as shown in Figure 5.11.
Note that none of the Arduino pins go into pads on the power rails. It may look like the Arduino is electrically connected to the top negative rail in Figure 5.11, but it is not (it just overlaps). The first set of Arduino pins go into the first row of pads below the top negative rail (the same as the header pins on either side of it). Leave a row of two empty pads between the right side of the Arduino board and the two 3 row header strips. You will have a single row of empty pads on the left. These empty pads could be used to hard solder data lines to the Arduino at a future time.
Tape the Arduino in place if needed and then flip the board over and solder all of the Arduino pins. Continuity test each Arduino pin with a neighboring empty pad just like you did with the motor controller.
Now is a good time to clip the excess pin length on the Arduino and motor controller from the bottom of the prototyping board using a flush cutter.
SAFETY NOTE: The pins you are about to cut are semi-sharp, electrically conductive, and light enough to fly everywhere when cut. Wear some sort of eye protection when cutting. Cover your flush cutter with your spare hand before you make each cut. Remember to collect all the cut pieces and dispose of them when you are done. Observing this process will keep these pieces from flying into your eyes or disappearing among other parts, only to be stepped on or to short something out at a later date.
You want to place the flush cutter as tightly to the bottom of the board as you can without cutting your soldering. Figure 5.12 shows a cutter being placed and Figure 5.13 shows it covered with a hand as the cut is being made. Figure 5.14 shows the board after all the pins have been cut.
Adding wiring and the buzzer
You will now will install the buzzer and start wiring the modules together. Cut a piece of hook up wire that is approximately 40mm (1.5”) and strip about 6mm (1/4”) from one end. Figure 5.15 shows a piece of 24awg solid hook up wire being stripped with a self-adjusting wire stripper (please don’t frustrate yourself with any other kind of wire stripper).
Insert the stripped end of the wire into one of the prototyping board holes connected to Arduino pin D10. Align it against the bottom of the 3 pin headers and bend it to fit into the outside hole on the third row of holes (from the top edge) of the prototyping board. Cut the wire so that there is about 6mm (1/4”) beyond that hole and then take the wire out and strip 6mm (1/4”) from the unstripped end. Reinsert the wire and align it so that it matches Figure 5.16. Reach under the board and bend the ends of the wire away from the pads so that the wire will stay in place while you flip the board over and solder the ends of the wire. Solder the ends of the wire and then clip the excess from the stripped ends. You will find that the ends of hook up wire do not fly away as violently as the pins you clipped earlier, but it is still important to do it safely and collect the tiny pieces that you clip off.
Next insert the buzzer. The wire you just soldered will provide power from Arduino pin D10 and you will ground the buzzer to the negative power rail. The buzzer should have a “+” marked on one side. The pin on that side of the buzzer (probably longer than the other pin) goes into a hole on the row where you soldered the end of the wire farthest from the Arduino. Put the + buzzer pin in a hole next to your wire. The other pin on the buzzer goes into a hole on the negative power rail that is halfway between the two sets of 3 row headers. So the side of the buzzer with a “+” should be on the outside of the prototyping board in the row you wire is soldered to and the other side of the buzzer should be in the negative power rail. It may not be an exact fit. You may need to gently bend the pins of the buzzer toward each other to fit into the prototyping board hole spacing. Push the buzzer in just deep enough that its pins come through the bottom of the board—do not try to force it all the way down as you risk breaking off its pins or crushing your wire. Figure 5.17 shows the buzzer properly inserted. Flip the board over and solder the buzzer pins. Clip the excess off the pins.
You will be adding a series of wires to the prototyping board. If you should make a mistake in making the following connections you can clip the wire out and use one of the adjacent holes in the prototyping board that performs the same function (e.g. a positive power connection or on the same row of data pins). However you will only have room for one do-over per connection for the most part, so strive to get it right the first time.
Next, wire the motor controller board and the Arduino to the power rails. Cut two 45mm (1.75”) wires, strip one end of each and test fit them between GND on the left side of the motor controller board and the right negative power rail for the first one, and between the VIN pin on the motor controller board and the right positive power rail for the second one. This is illustrated in Figure 5.18.
These wires on the left side provide power and ground to motor power circuitry of the motor controller. Test fit to trim off excess wire, then strip the other end, inert the wires into the rails and solder and clip all four points of contact. It’s a good idea to tuck these wires in the narrow space between the Arduino and motor controller board to keep them out of the way of wires that will come later.
The motor controller right side GND pin and VCC pin also need to be wired to the negative and positive power rails, respectively. The motor controller is designed to switch higher voltages than it is controlled with, but this project runs everything at 5 volts, so it is ok to wire both sides of the controller to the same power rails. Use the same procedure as before, but start with slightly shorter pieces of wire. Figure 5.19 shows the second set of wires in place along with the first. It is worth your time to get these four wires to lay as flat against the prototyping board and as parallel to the rows of holes as you can—you will be running a second set of wires over them.
Next connect the Arduino to the power rails. Cut and strip both ends of two 50mm (2”) wires. Connect the pad next to the 5V pin on the left side of the Arduino to the positive rail at the lower left of the prototyping board. Connect the pad next to the GND pin on the left side of the Arduino to the negative rail at the lower left of the prototyping board. These wires should not lie flat against the board but should stand proud of (above) it by about 6mm (1/4″) so that you can work around and under them in the future. You will be sliding the voltage booster under them, for example. Solder and clip the ends of all four connection points. Figure 5.20 shows these wires installed.
It is time to connect the output pins of the Arduino to the input pins of the motor controller. Cut four wires of about 60mm (2.3”) and strip each end of each wire. These wires will also stand proud of the board when installed so you can move then out of the way as needed. The four wires connect as follows:
Arduino pin D9 to motor controller pin B/IN2EN
Arduino pin D8 to motor controller pin B/IN1PH
Arduino pin D7 to motor controller pin A/IN1PH (note this is out of sequence on the motor controller board)
Arduino pin D6 to motor controller pin A/IN2EN
It’s probably best to connect and solder these wires one at a time instead of connecting them all and then trying to keep them all in place while soldering. Clip the excess ends. Figure 5.21 shows these four wires installed.
Insert the 20k resistor between the MD pin on the motor controller board and the positive power rail, as shown in Figure 5.22. This is a “pull up” resistor that will set the controller to the correct mode. It doesn’t matter which direction resistors are inserted. Solder the resistor in place and clip the excess leads.
This is a good time to check continuity on all of your new wiring. Insert one probe of your multimeter into a positive power rail pad from beneath and touch the other probe to the tops of the following positive power pins one at a time: VIN and VCC on the motor controller board and 5V on the Arduino. Test your grounds by switching the bottom probe to an empty pad on the negative power rail and touching both GND pins on the controller board and GND on the Arduino in turn. Touch your probes to the tops of Arduino Pins D6-D9 and the tops of the controller pins that you soldered to them in turn. You should get a beep on all these connections. It’s also a good time to make sure your Arduino is still fully functional. Plug it into your computer via USB and download the Blink program from the Examples/Basics folder.
If your tests go smoothly take a break and bask the glory what you have accomplished so far. You have built a fully functional robot controller!
Assembling the chassis
Before you begin you should gather all the parts, including the 3D printed components. Many 3D printers “squish” the first layer of a print, partially closing holes, or leaving small threads of filament hanging off parts. You should clean out your parts before assembly. Use a 2mm drill bit to clean out all the 2mm holes in your parts. Carefully clean out the hollow in the castor mount for the steel ball—tolerances are very tight in that space. Press the steel ball into the castor until it pops into place. The ball should roll around in the mount with relative ease but not fall out when the mount is shaken vigorously. The circular mounts for the ultrasonic sensor may be overly tight or loose, depending on how precise of a job the printer you used did with them. If they are too tight because of a squished first layer you can sand it smooth or trim it down with a sharp knife by running the blade around the inside of each. If the mount is too loose to hold the sensor in place you can add a bit of tape to the barrels on the sensor.
SAFETY TIP: don’t cut toward yourself with a sharp knife, cut away from your body instead. Be especially careful to cut away from your other hand. Think about where that blade is going to go when it slips under pressure before you cut, and make sure it’s somewhere safe. You don’t want to find out the hard way that it was aimed at your other hand.
The motor mounts should be printed with supports turned on (for the mounting ears). These printer supports need to be snapped off and the ears cleaned up. The holes on the ears should be reamed out with the 2mm drill bit. The rest of the edges of the 3D parts should be cleaned up also, but are not as critical. Figure 5.23 shows the motor mounts fresh off the printer and after cleaning, while Figure 5.24 shows all of the 3D printed parts prepared for assembly.
The screws holding the standoffs for the electronics board need to be added to the chassis first, as two of them will be under the AA battery holder. Insert a m2 x 12mm screw into the chassis from the bottom at one of the mounting holes for the standoff. Tighten a nut onto the screw from the top. The nut should be as tight as you can make it without breaking the plastic on the chassis. Tighten a second nut onto the screw against the first. The second nut helps keep things tight, but more importantly, it spaces the standoff correctly. Add the remaining three screws for the standoffs in the same manner. Add four 12mm standoffs to the protruding threads of the screws. These should also be quite tight but not so tight that you strip the soft threads in the nylon standoffs. Correct installation of the standoffs is illustrated in Figure 5.25
The AA battery holder and the castor mount and are added next. The 2 screws for the caster mount and the two screws for the battery holder go in from the bottom (so they allow the battery holder to lie flush to the bottom of the chassis) and are secured with one nut each. There is a diagonal ground wire in a slot on the bottom of the battery holder that can be knocked out of place. Make sure it is in its slot before installation so it doesn’t get crushed. Tighten down the battery holder screws before the caster mount. The wires from the battery holder should point toward the slot and hole for the toggle switch. Then secure the caster mount firmly. Installation of these two items in illustrated in Figure 5.26 and Figure 5.27.
The screws on Bootstrap seem to stay tight enough with a single nut as the soft plastic of 3D printed parts helps hold them in place. If you find that they loosen over time you can add a second nut, use nuts with a locking nylon insert, or add a drop of thread locking compound (don’t use “superglue” or you won’t be able to get it apart again). However if you tighten a single nut firmly on each screw, you are unlikely to need these remedies.
The wiring from the battery holder through the diode and switch should be done next. Error on the side of leaving wires too long. It won’t look as tidy but you can tuck excess wiring under the prototyping board once it’s mounted and it will make modifications easier in the future. The ground (black) wire from the battery holder will be soldered directly to the voltage converter so it can be left unaltered. The positive (red wire) from the battery holder with go through a diode to protect the circuit from incorrectly installed batteries and then through the power switch to the voltage converter.
First, prepare the diode. The leads should be clipped short and bent into a tight hook just large enough to accommodate wires. Figure 5.28 shows an unprepared and prepared diode.
Cut the red wire from the battery holder to about 30 mm (1.2″) and strip the end. Insert this into the input side the diode (the one without the white band around it) and firmly solder it into place. Cut a wire of about 40 mm (1.6″) and strip the ends. One end of this wire is soldered to the output side of the diode (the one with the white band around it) and the other end is soldered to the middle post on the bottom of the toggle switch. It’s easiest to do this if you insert the toggle switch into its hole first. Mount the toggle switch by inserting it up through the bottom of the chassis. The toggle switch is secured with a lock washer and nut from the top of the chassis. The switch likely came with an extra tabbed washer and a nut that wont be used in this project. Figure 5.29 shows a finished installation of the polarity protection diode. The diode could be glued or taped against the battery holder (without contacting metal) when you are done, or just tucked under nearby wiring (don’t glue it to the body to so future chassis swaps are easier).
One end of a 80 mm (3.1″) length of stripped wire should be soldered to the tab on the bottom of the toggle switch pointing toward the back of the robot. The other end of this wire will eventually be soldered to the input side of the voltage converter.
Motors and bump switches
The motors come next. These motors will have their polarity frequently reversed to drive forwards and backwards, so there really isn’t a positive or negative side on these motors. To drive the robot forward one motor needs to turn in one direction while the other needs to turn in the opposite direction (because they are mirrors of each other on opposite sides of the robot). Putting both of these things together, wiring up motors can be confusing, but it is not a big problem. If the motors are installed incorrectly it is easy to fix in hardware (flipping their sides on the robot) or in software.
However there are a couple things you can do to make things easier to sort out later. Cut and strip four 165 mm (6.5″) lengths of wire (these will be slightly long when installed to allow for future changes). It is best if you use two different colors of wire. Solder one end of the first color of wire to the tab on a motor with a tiny “+” above it, as illustrated by Figure 5.30.
If your motor is missing the “+” just pick a tab. Solder the other color of wire to the matching tab on the other motor. For example, if you have a red wire and a blue wire: solder the red wire to the “+” tab on the first motor and the blue wire to the “+” tab on the other motor. Solder the other two wires to the remaining motor tabs. Soldered motors are shown Figure 5.31.
(The build being illustrated from Figure 5.31 on is a different one from the earlier illustrations so the wiring color is different.)
Press the motors into the motor mounts. They go in with the protruding shaft of the motor pointing away from the ears on the mount. The brass plate on the motor mounts flush against the end of the mount. There are very small gussets in the mount that fit between brass plates. Make sure the motor is in the mount so that they will both lie flat against the bottom of the robot chassis. The mounts go into the chassis with 2 screws each. They should be held firmly and flush to the chassis without pinching the motor case. If the fit is too tight work the 2 mm drill bit around the inside of the holes to loosen things up a bit. Mounted motors are shown in Figures 5.32 and 5.33. Notice how the same color of wire points toward each end of the chassis.
Feed the free ends of the wires attached to the motors, the free end of the battery ground wire, and the free end of the wire from the switch up through the slot behind where the switch mounts. All of the wiring should come through the slot behind the switch without getting pinched by it. Tuck the motor wires down along the battery holder on the bottom of the chassis.
Prepare and mount the bump switches. The ends of the levers on the bump switches need to be bent slightly to slide into brackets on the bumper. The levers are thin steel but are not easy to bend. You need to be very careful while bending that you do not put pressure on the base of the lever as it could break right out of the switch. Holding the level by its midpoint, pinching it between your figures as shown in Figure 5.34, bend the outer 8 mm (.3″)of the lever inward toward the switch by about 20 degrees.
Cut and strip four 180 mm (7″) lengths of wire. It’s best if you use two colors of wire. Solder one wire each of the same color to the center tab of each bump switch (this will be your ground wire). Solder one wire each of the other color to the tab on the switch closest to the switch mechanism (this will be your power wire). Mount the switches to the chassis with the levers pointing outward. Insert two screws up from the bottom of the chassis (the heads need to go in the counter sunk holes on the bottom for these screws to be long enough) on the outside edges of the switches. Slip the bumper on to the bent ends of the switch levers before you insert the inside screw. You may need to do some adjusting to get the bumper and switches working well. The holes on the switches are oversized for the screws, giving you an easy way to adjust the fit. Start with the switches pushed all the way forward and outward on the chassis. If the bumper doesn’t work smoothly, clicking each switch when pressed on that side, you can adjust the switch within the mounting holes. Once it does, fully tighten the nuts down on the switches. The bumper should stay on the robot and trip at least one switch when it is pressed against the chassis (you will hear the switch click when it is tripped). Figure 5.35 shows the switches and bumper mounted to the chassis.
Final electronics and components
The prototyping board can be mounted and the final soldering done next. The prototyping board mounts to the top of the standoffs with four screws. To start, just lay it on top so that you can insert wires for soldering from the bottom (you may occasionally want to temporarily hold it down with one screw before final installation). Bring the four wires from the motors up from the front of the board near the motor controller and strip and solder them from the bottom one at a time. The wire from the “+” side of the right-side motor goes into a pad next to the pin marked BO2 on the controller. The other wire from the same motor goes into the pad next to the pin marked BO1. The wire NOT from the “+” side of the left-side motor goes into a pad next the pin marked AO2 and the final wire is assigned to AO1. Motor wires soldered to the controller are shown in Figure 5.36. If you use the pads closest to the controller you will have an empty set of pads or two in case you find that you want to reassign controller pins to motors latter on.
The wires from the bump switches can lay flat along the top of the chassis on either side of where the ultrasonic sensor will mount. Bring the ends of these wires up over the left side of the prototyping board. The next series of wires should be soldered with their insulation as close as possible to the top of the prototype board to prevent possible short circuits. Two short (30 mm, 1.2″) wires are cut, stripped, and soldered at the second pad in a row of three outside the positive power near the set of 3×4 header pins as shown in Figure 5.37.
These will be the inputs to the Arduino indicating that the switches have been pressed. Next, the power wire from each switch (the one from the tab of the switch furthest to the center of the chassis) should be soldered into a positive power rail pad on the board. These wires are shown in place in Figure 5.38. Different power rail pads could be used but this is a very compact installation.
Next, two 10k ohm resistors are soldered to the first pin in the row of three outside the power rail and into ground rail pads, passing over the positive wires without risking electrical contact with then. If use the highly compact arrangement illustrated in Figure 5.39 the resistors will not fully insert into the pads–you don’t want them pressing on wires anyway. You could solder the resistors to different pads in the ground rails, if you prefer.
Now it is time to solder the free ends of the two short wires to pads in line with D2 and D3 on the Arduino (the header pins for those pads will become unavailable as long as these input wires are soldered in). The right side switch can be assigned to D3 and the left side assigned to D2. Figure 5.40 shows these wires in place. Finally the two ground wires from the switches are soldered into the outside pads on the rows with the input to the Arduino and the resistors. The final set of wires are in place in Figure 5.40.
The voltage converter is taped to the prototyping board as it has no mounting holes. A thick piece of double-sided tape works best. You do not want to have electrical contact between the bottom of the voltage converter and the top of the prototyping board. Hot melt glue could also be used, but it will be messier than double sided tape and might melt again when soldering. Mount the voltage converter as shown in Figure 5.41, leaving a gap between it and the Arduino. The voltage converter should slip under the wires for power and ground coming from the Arduino.
Once the voltage converter is mounted solder the output wires from it to the prototyping board. These are very short wires and they need to be soldered to the surface of the pads on the voltage converter. The other ends of the wires need to be soldered into the correct pads on the prototyping board. This is the fiddliest soldering job in the whole project so go slow and be precise. Use two different colors of wire to keep things straight. Start by soldering a wire of one color into a pad on the negative power rail and a wire of a different color into a pad on the positive rail after measuring the wires and striping both ends. Using Figure 5.42 as your guide, bend the free end of the wires so that the striped lead of each lays flat against the correct pad on the voltage converter. These wires cross between the prototyping board and the voltage converter. After you are sure you have them in the right position, solder them down to the voltage converter.
Don’t bridge the pads on the voltage converter to other components on it with overly long wire ends or a massive gob of solder. Figure 5.42 illustrates the correct placement of the wires. Get the polarity right or you will burn something out when you turn it on.
The positive wire from the toggle switch and the ground wire from the battery pack can be soldered to the other end of the voltage converter, as shown in Figure 5.43. The correct polarity is marked on the voltage converter. The positive side on the input of the voltage converter is the ground side on the output, so don’t be mislead.
You can trim the wires before soldering somewhat, but leave plenty of slack so that you can easily move the electronics of this robot to a new chassis in the future. The wire from the battery pack will be stranded. It is a good idea to put a small amount of solder on the strands after stripping (tinning the wire) and before inserting it into the top of the pad on the voltage converter for soldering.
At this point the prototyping board can be secured. Tighten four nuts all the way down on four screws. Insert the screws through the prototyping board and into the nylon standoffs. Hold the standoffs steady while you tighten the screws. The screws will not tighten all the way down. Once the screws are as far in as they will go, you can tighten the nuts you put on them down to the top of the prototyping board. These screws provide and excellent location to secure accessories to the basic Bootstrap model. A fully mounted prototyping board is shown in Figure 5.44.
Lastly, the ultrasonic sensor and wheels can be mounted. If your sensor does not have its pins labeled on the back, you will need to write down their order when looking at the back of the sensor (most likely it will be Gnd, Echo, Trig, Vcc from left to right when viewed from back–but check). The sensor slides into its mount. A set of four jumper wires attach to the leads on the sensor. Two screws (inserted from the bottom of the chassis) and nuts secure the assembly to the chassis. Run the jumper wires under the prototyping board and out the back. These can be looped over and inserted on the left side of the board. The jumper from Trig goes into the header pin closest to D4 on the Arduino (the data pin for D4, not the power or ground rail). The jumper from Echo goes into a header pin closest to D5 on the Arduino. The jumper from Vcc goes into a header pin on the positive power rail and the Gnd jumper goes into a header pin on the ground rail. Get these backwards and you may burn out your Arduino when you power up.
The final assembly task is to add the wheels. The wheels just slide on with the flat in the motor shaft aligned with the flat on the wheel hub. The side of the wheels with the raised teeth (for wheel encoders) goes inward toward the chassis. The wheels should go on as far as possible without rubbing on the mounted motors or the chassis. When they are all the way on they will be difficult to remove. Figure 5.45 shows a completed assembly with the ultrasonic sensor and wheels attached.
Congratulations! You have a fully assembled Bootstrap. Don’t power it up! In the next section there are some simple tests to complete before adding power.